Yamaha WR250R

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This page intended to collect information for my own use.. and yours, if you promise to use it for educational reasons only, and not hold me or any other contributors to this wiki liable for whatever you do.

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Suspension

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Aftermarket Programmers

EJK/FMF Programmer

NOTE: All information presented here 'as-is', for educational purposes only. No suitability for any purpose is intended or advised.

Programming Notes:

  • Bike must be running to inspect/program
  • Mode button navigates through settings
  • +/- buttons change settings (0.5 - 8.0) in 0.5 increments
  • 6 different modes, navigated by LED color
    • 1: Green -- amount of fuel added during 'cruise' condition (0.5 = stock/invisible)
    • 2: Yellow -- amount of fuel added during acceleration (0.5 = stock/invisible)
    • 3: Red -- amount of fuel added during full throttle/at WOT (0.5 = stock/invisible)
    • 4: Green/Blue -- definition of 'cruise' condition in RPM (0.5 = 1000 RPM / 8.0 = 2800 RPM)
    • 5: Yellow/Blue -- delay before adding fuel under acceleration (0.5 = sooner / 8.0 = later)
    • 6: Red/Blue -- delay before adding fuel at full throttle/at WOT (0.5 = sooner / 8.0 = later)

Other notes:

  • Green (first) LED flashes at twice normal rate to indicate a value of '0.5'
  • Two adjacent LEDs lit means 'N'.5, ie. Green/Yellow = 1.5
  • While idling, Green LED is solid if cruise mode is active, flashing if not. Other LEDs follow this convention
  • Programming maps often shown in shorthand like this: 1/2/3/4/5/6, meaning G/Y/R/GB/YB/RB in LED color, or mode number.

Possibly useful maps:

  • FMF factory map: 3/4/1/8/4/4.5
  • Dyno run on 2008 with Yoshimura exhaust, flapper removed: 3/5/0.5/8/4/4

EFI Diagnostic Mode

NOTE: All information presented here 'as-is', for educational purposes
only. No suitability for any purpose is intended or advised.

Enter Diagnostic Mode

With Ignition cut-off switch set to OFF:
Press and hold "RESET" and "SELECT1" buttons, turn on ignition key, hold buttons for 8 seconds
until display changes to 'Diag'. Press both buttons again and hold until display changes to
D01 (about 3 seconds), cycle with 'SELECT1'.

CO Level Adjustment Mode

On US model bikes, this requires grounding an 'extra' wire located in the Lean Angle Sensor
connector, which can be found attached to the top of the airbox, and labelled "UP".

Once this is done, enter Diagnostic Mode normally, and 'SELECT1' should get you to 'Co' mode.

At the top of the display in CO mode, a tachometer is available.

Diagnostic Modes

  • D01: Throttle Position
    • Fully Closed: 15-19
    • Fully Open: 95-100
  • D03: Pressure Difference -- Atmospheric Pressure - (minus) Intake Pressure
  • D05: Intake Air Temperature
  • D06: Coolant Temperature
  • D07: Vehicle Speed Pulse
  • D08: Lean Angle Sensor
    • Upright: 0.4-1.4V
    • Overturned: 3.7-4.4V
  • D09: Battery Voltage
  • D20: Sidestand Switch -- UP:ON, DOWN:OFF
  • D21: Neutral Switch -- Neutral:ON, InGear:OFF
  • D60: EEPROM Fault Code -- 00:No Fault
  • D61: CEL History Codes -- 00:No History
    • If codes present: cycles each code for 2 seconds
  • D62: CEL Erase/Clear -- toggle stop switch to clear
  • D63: Repeat CEL Codes -- ??
  • D70: Control Number -- 00-255

Diagnostic Sensor/Actuator Modes

Toggle engine cut-off switch to actuate these. If your fuel pump constantly runs while
cycling through them, your cut-off switch is 'ON'. Turn it off.

  • D30: Ignition Coil -- Fires coil 5 times/second
  • D36: Injector -- Actuates Fuel Injector 5 times/second
  • D48: Air Induction Solenoid -- Actuates solenoid 5 times/second
  • D49: Intake Solenoid -- Actuates solenoid 5 times/second
  • D50: Fuel Injection Relay -- Actuates relay 5 times/second (flashes CEL to match)
  • D51: Radiator Fan Relay -- Actuates fan motor: on 2 seconds, off 3 seconds
  • D52: Headlight Relay -- Actuates headlight relay: on 2 seconds, off 3 seconds
  • D53: EXUP Servo -- Opens valve, then closes.

Fault Codes

  • 12: Crankshaft Position Sensor -- bad/no signal
  • 13: Intake Air Pressure -- open or shorted
  • 14: Intake Air Pressure -- clogged hose
  • 15: Throttle Position Sensor -- open or shorted
  • 16: Throttle Position Sensor -- stuck
  • 17: EXUP Servo -- open or shorted
  • 18: EXUP Servo -- stuck
  • 19: Sidestand Switch -- open circuit to ECU
  • 21: Coolant Temperature -- open or shorted
  • 22: Intake Air Temperature -- open or shorted
  • 30: Lean Angle Sensor -- bad/no signal
  • 33: Ignition Coil -- primary open or shorted
  • 41: Lean Angle Sensor -- open or shorted
  • 42: Speed Sensor -- bad/no signal
  • --or: Neutral Switch -- open or shorted
  • 43: Fuel Pump/Injector -- bad power (open circuit or bad relay)
  • 44: EEPROM -- read/write error (CO adj. will fail)
  • 46: EFI Power -- abnormal
  • 50: Faulty ECU Memory
  • 70: Left Idling -- Engine shutdown after idling for 20 minutes
  • Er-1: No signal from ECU
  • Er-2: No signal from ECU in specified duration (?)
  • Er-3: Data from ECU malformed
  • Er-4: Non-registered data received from meter

Suspension

Tuning (with factory equipment)

Replicated from here (by derangedhermit@ADV), to make it easier to find: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7780143&postcount=509

The WR250R and WR250X have identical suspensions. The factory damping settings for the front fork are identical.
The factory damping settings for the rear shock are slightly different. The standard shock preload is the same.

A summary of the adjustments, using the service manual terms:

* All adjustments are made starting from maximum damping.
* Maximum damping is always found by turning the adjustment screw or knob in the clockwise direction (as you look
  at the head of the adjustment screw).
* All adjustments are measured in counterclockwise "clicks" from maximum damping.

Fork adustment:
* Always adjust the left and right front fork tubes evenly.

Fork rebound damping is set at the top of each fork tube. As you look down at the adjusting screw, turn it gently
but completely clockwise until it stops. This is maximum rebound damping ("Hard" suspension). 

Maximum (hard) = 1 click out. 
Standard = 10 clicks out. 
Minimum (soft) = 12 clicks out.

Fork compression damping is set at the bottom of each fork tube. Pry out the small black rubber plug at the very
end of the tube. Turn clockwise to reach maximum compression damping. Replace plug when finished.

Maximum (hard) = 1 click out.
Standard = 10 clicks out.
Minimum (soft) = 19 clicks out.

Rear shock adjustment:

Shock rebound damping is set by the knurled knob at the bottom of the shock. Access from right side of bike.
"Clockwise" on this is as if you were looking up from underneath, just like the compression damping on the fork.
That is, turn the side of the knob closest to you towards the front of the bike to go clockwise.
Turn clockwise to max damping.

Max = 1 click out
Std = 12 clicks out (WR250R)
Std = 13 clicks out (WR250X)
Min = 25 clicks out

Shock compression damping is accessed from the left side of bike. It is the small screw at the top of the external
oil reservoir. This one, on my bike, I cannot hear "click" - I have to go by feel. It is a very light sensation.
Turn clockwise to max damping.

Max = 1 click out
Std = 10 clicks out (WR250R)
Std = 7 clicks out (WR250X)
Min = 12 clicks out

Remember, "Max" always means maximum damping. That means hard suspension. Min means minimum damping. That means
soft suspension.

== Track/Hare Scramble Race Tuning (with factory equipment) ==

Replicated from here (by kawagumby@ADV), to make it easier to find: [http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8082443&postcount=645 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8082443&postcount=645]<br/>

<pre>
Well, I've been riding my "WRR" for about 2 months, mostly off-road. I too am very experienced, been riding since '63,
done a lot of harescrambles, and am expert at crashing while protecting the bike with my body. My bike has a full knobby
on the rear with the "not for highway use" ground off (for liability purposes?) and the front is a very aggressive Dunlop
rally raid. One thing I noticed was the front end feels heavy off of jumps and it is a little tough to wheelie. Here's
what worked for me to fix that (btw I'm 165 w/o gear). Backed off the shock preload till the spring barely compresses..
it still turns well and has about 4" sag, so the spring is a little stiff for my 165 lb weight. I run shock rebound full
damping, run shock compression about middle setting. Fork compression full damping, fork rebound very light damping.
I ride on very rough trails with few rocks.

Any rear knobby on the bike makes the bike rake even more radical as the knobbies are virtually all larger in diameter
than the stock rear tire (even the 110/90 dunlop d745 that I use). I used the shock height adjustment to compensate,
screwing the thing all the way in. I also dropped the forks to where the top of the fork cap is level with the top of
the triple clamp thus raising the front some.

Now the bike stays level off of jumps and the front end lofts much more easily over obstacles. Believe it or not, it
still carves in the turns. I've been told by several others that these settings really helped them out for off road
work on thier WRR's also.

Gearing

Forum members indicate that since speedo pickup is in the engine (transmission), altering gearing will also alter
your speed reading at the dash. Gearing down will increase indicated speed; gearing up will decrease indicated speed.

See here: TT: WR250R/X gearing information Stock

Stock gearing is 13 front, ?? rear. Top speed rumored to be around 88mph. 12T front (OR 47T rear)

Adds slight vibration, more torque down low, may improve 6th gear hill behavior.

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